Бифштекс по-фиорентински

Cut thick, cooked hard over open flame, and served the way Tuscany has always served it: barely seasoned, carved at the table, gone in ten minutes.

• T-bone steak, cut thick on the bone.

• Sea salt, coarse, nothing else on it.

• Rosemary, thrown on the coals.

• Lemon, cut in wedges for the finish.

• Olive oil, for the plate, not the fire.

The steak is charred hot and fast so the outside crusts and the middle stays red, then it rests, gets carved off the bone and hits the plate with the rosemary smoke still on it. Squeeze the lemon over, add a little olive oil, and that is the whole dish. Contains: none of the common allergens.