Bosquet des Papes farms old vines in the north of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where the galets roulés — the large rounded stones that cover the surface of the appellation — hold the day's heat and give it back overnight. Chante le Merle is the estate's old-vine cuvée, and 2013 was a late, cool year that produced wines of freshness rather than weight.
- Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support.
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the southern Rhône.
- 2013, a cooler and later vintage in the region.
- Full-bodied, high in tannin, dry.
How it tastes
Blackberry and black raspberry sit over garrigue, the wild herb scent of the scrubland around the appellation, with leather and dried herbs underneath. Acidity is only medium, so the structure comes from the tannins, which are firm and still present. The fruit is rich and the finish is long, with the cocoa and anise note the estate is known for.
Where it comes from
Châteauneuf-du-Pape was the first appellation in France to set down formal rules for its wine, drawn up in the 1920s and 1930s. Thirteen grape varieties are permitted, and the best reds lean on Grenache. The name refers to the summer residence of the popes in Avignon, who planted vines here in the 14th century.
Good to know
The stones that cover the vineyards are not decoration. They warm the soil through the day and release heat after dark, which helps Grenache ripen in a place where the mistral can strip a vine bare. A cool year like 2013 pushes that ripening later and keeps the alcohol in check.