Панино Капрезе

Ciabatta pressed until the edges go crisp, then opened while the mozzarella is still soft enough to pull.

• Ciabatta, grilled flat and faintly charred.
• Mozzarella, melted through, not rubbery.
• Ripe tomato, sliced thick.
• Basil, torn in at the end.
• Pesto, spread thin on the top half.

It is a simple thing done in the right order: bread on the grill first, tomato and basil kept away from the heat so they stay bright, pesto added after the press so it does not turn bitter. Vegetarian, and best eaten within a minute or two, while the cheese still moves. Contains: gluten, dairy.