烤鲈鱼

Whole fish over fire, skin blistered and charred at the edges, the flesh underneath still soft enough to come away in wide flakes.

• Whole sea bass, grilled on the bone.

• Lemon, squeezed over while it is still hot.

• Rosemary, thrown on the fire to smoke.

• Capers, sharp against the oil.

• Olive oil, poured off the spoon, not the bottle.

Grilling a whole fish is not complicated. You need the fire hot, the skin dry, and the nerve to leave it alone until it releases. The lemon and rosemary go on at the end, so the smoke stays in the oil and the capers keep their bite. It arrives on the plate whole, head on, and comes apart with a fork. Contains: fish.