Кхао Сой

Two bowls of noodles in one: soft egg noodles soaking up a curry that is more fragrant than hot, and a nest of the same noodles fried crisp on top.

• Egg noodles, boiled soft and fried crisp.
• Chicken in a coconut curry, slow and mild.
• Shallots, sliced raw for bite.
• A wedge of lime, squeezed at the table.

Khao Soi comes from the north, and the whole point is the contrast, so eat it before the crisp noodles go soft. The lime is not decoration. Spicy, but gentle enough that the coconut carries it. Contains: gluten, eggs.