Montelobos is a mezcal from Oaxaca, made by a producer who works only with espadín, the agave that most mezcal in the state is built on. It is unaged, so nothing in the bottle comes from wood: the colour is clear and the flavour is the agave and the fire, nothing else.
- Espadín agave, the workhorse of Oaxacan mezcal.
- Oaxaca, Mexico, the heartland of the category.
- 43.2% ABV, 70cl bottle.
- Unaged, so the agave does the talking.
How it is made
Mezcal starts with agave, and espadín is the variety most Oaxacan palenques work with because it matures in roughly eight years rather than the twelve or more that wild agaves need. The hearts are roasted in a pit lined with hot stones and covered with earth, which is where the smoke comes from. They are then crushed, fermented, and distilled in copper or clay stills. Nothing is added afterwards, and the spirit is not put into wood, so it stays clear.
How it tastes
Smoke first, but smoke that sits on top of something rather than covering it. Roasted agave underneath, earthy and a little sweet, then green herbs and citrus, and a black pepper note that arrives late. The finish is long and smooth, with the smoke fading rather than sharpening.
Good to know
Tequila and mezcal are both agave spirits, but only tequila has to be made from blue agave, and only in set parts of Mexico. Mezcal can be made from dozens of agave varieties, and Oaxaca produces more of it than anywhere else. Espadín is the one most bottles are built on, which makes it the clearest place to start with the category.
