San Marzano makes this in San Marzano di San Giorgio, a small town in the Salento, the flat heel of Puglia where the sun does most of the work. Two grapes go into it, one southern and generous, one Bordeaux and upright, and the blend is a Puglian habit rather than a compromise.
- Primitivo and Merlot, Puglia and Bordeaux in one bottle.
- Salento IGP, the peninsula south of Taranto and Brindisi.
- 2021, a warm vintage across the south.
- 14% alcohol, full-bodied, dry.
- Medium tannin, medium acidity.
How it is made
Primitivo is the grape Puglia is built on, and it ripens so fast and so sugar-heavy that growers once pulled it early just to keep the alcohol in range. Merlot is added here for shape: it fills the middle and pulls the finish tighter, so the wine reads as full rather than simply large. Salento IGP is a broad appellation, which means the rules are loose and the winemaking decides most of what ends up in the glass.
How it tastes
Blackberry and plum first, then dark chocolate and a tobacco note that comes in behind. The tannins are soft and the acidity sits at medium, so the weight stays even from front to back. It finishes dry, with the fruit still there.
Good to know
Primitivo and California's Zinfandel are the same grape, separated by an ocean and a century of naming. Puglia grows more of it than anywhere else, and the old bush vines in the Salento are among the oldest in Italy.
