توم يوم غونغ

The heat arrives first, then the sour, then the sweetness of the shrimp comes through underneath.

• Shrimp, cooked just until they curl.
• Lemongrass and galangal, bruised, not chopped.
• Mushrooms, soft and soaking up the broth.
• Chili and lime, added at the end.

This is the central Thai version, hot and sharp rather than creamy, the broth kept clear so you taste each thing separately. The aromatics go in whole and stay in the bowl, so you smell it before the first spoon. Medium heat, which means it bites without drowning the shrimp. Contains: shellfish, fish.