佛卡夏

Everything about this sandwich depends on the bread, and the bread is made here.

• Mortadella, sliced thin enough to fold.

• Stracciatella, cold against the warm bread.

• House-made focaccia, baked the same morning.

• Olive oil on the crust, still glistening.

The focaccia is pressed out by hand and dimpled before it goes in, so it comes out crisp at the edge and soft through the middle. Mortadella and stracciatella go on while the bread is still warm, which is the whole point: the cheese slackens, the meat softens, and the two of them settle into the crumb. It is a sandwich you eat standing up, over the counter, before the bread cools.