ラグー・リガトーニ

This is the kind of sauce that starts early and takes its time, beef and pork left to go quiet and dark in the pot until the whole kitchen smells like Sunday.

• Rigatoni, bronze-die, ridges built to hold sauce.

• Beef and pork, slow-cooked until they fall apart.

• Tomato, cooked down to something deep and sweet.

• A long simmer, no shortcuts, stirred when it needs it.

A classic ragù, done the long way, with the meat cooked until it gives up and the sauce turns thick enough to cling to every ridge of the pasta. The rigatoni goes in the pan with the sauce at the end, not on the plate under it, so each piece comes out coated rather than topped. Order it when you have time to sit with it.