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Cold-smoked salmon laid over toasted bread, the kind of thing that works as well at noon as it does at ten in the morning.

• Smoked salmon, sliced thin and fanned across the top.

• Avocado, ripe, spread edge to edge.

• Toasted bread underneath, sturdy enough to hold it.

Open-faced, so nothing is hidden and nothing gets lost on the way to the table. The salmon goes on last, over the avocado, so the fish stays cold and the toast stays crisp underneath it. It comes out of the kitchen in a couple of minutes, which is the point of a sandwich like this. Eat it with a knife and fork, or pick it up and accept the mess.