स्पैगेटी एले वोंगोल

Clams opened in white wine, the liquor left to reduce until it turns slightly cloudy and tastes of the sea.

• Linguine, cooked just short of al dente.

• Mediterranean clams, scrubbed and steamed open.

• Dry white wine, reduced down with the clam liquor.

• Garlic and flat-leaf parsley, chopped fine.

• A thread of good olive oil to finish.

The pasta goes into the pan with the clams and a little of the cooking water, tossed hard so the starch thickens the sauce and coats every strand. No cream, no tomato, nothing that gets in the way of the clams. It is the classic version, and the kitchen keeps it that way. The bowl arrives glossy, briny and still steaming.