DIM SUM PLATTER

Steam rises off the bamboo as the lid comes away, and what's underneath is the kitchen's tightest edit of the dim sum it does best.

• Steamed dumplings, skins still glossy and translucent.
• Fried parcels, crisp where the steam leaves off.
• Both styles on one platter, sent out together.
• Built to be shared, picked apart, argued over.

This is the chef's selection, meaning the lineup shifts with what the kitchen is happiest with that day — some pieces arrive soft and yielding straight from the steamer, others with a shattering golden shell from the fryer, and the contrast between the two is the whole point of ordering it this way. Come with three or four people and let it anchor the table. Contains: gluten.